Author: Diane M Guidebeck

Plant Spotlight:

Abies concolor (White Fir)

Abies concolor, commonly known as White Fir or concolor fir, is a majestic evergreen tree that belongs to the Pinaceae family. It’s native to the western United States and is often found in mountainous regions of the Rocky Mountains and Sierra Nevada. This tree has become popular for both landscaping and timber production due to its aesthetic appeal and practical uses.

KEY FEATURES

1. Appearance

• Height: It can grow anywhere from 30 to 60 feet tall (9 to 18 meters), although it can reach over 100 feet in ideal conditions.
• Shape: White Fir has a pyramidal shape, with a narrow, conical form in youth that broadens with age.
• Needles: The needles are unique, soft, and blue-green to silvery in color, around 1 to 2 inches long. They are arranged in a spiral pattern on the branches.
• Cones: The cones of White Fir are cylindrical, about 4 to 6 inches long, and stand upright on the branches. When mature, the cones disintegrate to release seeds.

2. Growing Conditions

• Soil: It prefers moist, well-drained soils but can tolerate a range of soil types, including clay (not heavy clay) gravely soil and sandy soils.
• Light: Full sun is ideal for this tree, though it can tolerate partial shade, particularly in warmer climates.
• Water: White Fir requires consistent moisture, particularly when young. It’s more drought-tolerant once established but benefits from regular watering.
• Climate: It thrives in USDA Hardiness Zones 4 to 6, which translates to regions with cold winters and moderate to high summer temperatures.

3. Uses

• Ornamental: Because of its attractive blue-green foliage and symmetrical shape, White Fir is often used in landscapes, parks, and as a specimen tree.
• Timber: The wood of Abies concolor is valuable and is often used for construction, paper, and plywood due to its light weight and ease of working with.
• Christmas Trees: White Fir is sometimes used as a Christmas tree due to its soft needles
• and pleasant fragrance.

4. Wildlife

• White Fir provides shelter and nesting sites for various birds and mammals. Its seeds are a food source for squirrels, while its dense foliage provides protection for animals in colder months.

5. Interesting Facts

• The name “concolor” refers to the uniform color of the tree’s needles, which distinguishes it from other fir species that have more varied needle colors.
• Lifespan is 300 years.
• The largest Abies concolor is in Yosemite National Park on the west slope, measuring 259 feet (78.8 meters).

How to Identify

The leaves of the white fir (Abies concolor) are arranged in a spiral pattern on the shoots of the tree. However, the leaves are twisted at the base so that they lie in flat ranks on either side of the shoot.

Leaf characteristics 

• The leaves are needle-like and scale-like.
• They are flat and can’t be rolled between the fingers.
• There is one leaf per node.
• The leaves are blue or blue green in color.
• The leaves have parallel venation.
• The leaves are less than 2 inches long.
• The leaves have a pungent odor, often camphor like.

Other white fir characteristics

• The white fir is an evergreen tree native to the Rocky Mountains 
• The white fir can grow to be over 100 feet tall. 
• The white fir has brown cones that are cylindrical and 4–5 inches long. 
• The white fir has smooth, whitish gray bark. 
• The white fir has a citrus odor when bruised. 

Is It Native, Non-Native, or Invasive

Native plants are species that naturally occur in a particular region or ecosystem without human intervention. They have evolved over thousands or even millions of years to adapt to the local climate, soil, and wildlife. These plants play a vital role in maintaining the health of their native ecosystems because they support local wildlife, such as pollinators and herbivores, and contribute to the biodiversity of the area.

Non-native plants, also known as exotic or alien plants, are species that have been introduced to an area outside of their natural range, either intentionally or accidentally, by humans. While some non-native plants might coexist with the local environment, others can become Invasive species and outcompete native species, disrupting local ecosystems, reducing biodiversity, and even altering the soil or climate.

Key Differences:

1. Origin:
   • Native: Naturally found in the region or ecosystem.
   • Non-native: Introduced from other regions or countries, often by humans.
   • Invasive: Introduced by transportation, intentional or by accident.
2. Ecosystem Role:
   • Native: Support local wildlife, pollinators, and contribute to ecosystem stability.
   • Non-native: Can sometimes support wildlife but may not have the same ecological role as native plants.
   • Invasive: Causing disruptions by competing with native species for resources, altering habitats, spreading diseases, and potentially leading to the decline or extinction of native plants and animals, thus reducing biodiversity in the affected ecosystem. 
3. Invasiveness:
   • Native: Generally, not invasive and coexist well with local species.
   • Non-native: Some non-native plants can become invasive, spreading rapidly and outcompeting native plants.
   • Invasive: Have a direct impact on the ecosystem and financial impact on crops and habitats.
4. Adaptation:
   • Native: Well-adapted to local conditions (climate, soil, pests, etc.).
   • Non-native: May struggle to adapt, but some thrive in new environments, especially if they lack natural predators.
   • Invasive: Disrupting local adaptations and reducing phenotypic variation. 
5. Impact on Biodiversity:
   • Native: Helps maintain a balanced and diverse ecosystem.
   • Non-native: Can reduce biodiversity by outcompeting or displacing native species.
   • Invasive: Disrupting the balance of native species, impacting habitats of native species, causing decline in biodiversity.

In summary, while native plants are integral to the health of ecosystems, non-native plants can be beneficial in certain situations (like for ornamental purposes or erosion control), but some pose significant risks to native habitats if they become invasive.

In New England, the difference between native and non-native plants comes down to their origin and ecological role:

Native Plants*

• Origin: Native plants are species that naturally grow in East Coast or have evolved in the region over thousands of years.
• Ecological Role: These plants are well-suited to the local climate, soil, and environmental conditions. They provide essential habitats and food for local wildlife, including pollinators, birds, and insects. Native plants also tend to require less maintenance since they are adapted to local conditions.
• Maintenance: Native plants tend to require less care, while non-native plants may need more maintenance depending on the species.

NEW ENGLAND NATIVE PLANTS

New England is home to a rich diversity of native plants, with species adapted to a variety of environments, from coastal dunes to mountain forests. Here’s a list of notable native plants from the region:

1. Eastern Red Columbine (Aquilegia canadensis)

• A striking perennial with red and yellow flowers, commonly found in woodlands and along streams.
• Attracts hummingbirds and butterflies.

2. New England Aster (Symphyotrichum novae-angliae)

• A late-blooming perennial with vibrant purple or blue flowers.
• It thrives in meadows and along roadsides, attracting pollinators.

3. Black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia hirta)

• Known for its bright yellow petals and dark brown center, it’s a hardy wildflower that blooms in the summer and fall.
• Common in fields and prairies.

4. Eastern White Pine (Pinus strobus)

• One of the tallest trees in New England, with long, soft needles and tall, straight trunks.
• A key species in New England’s forests.

5. Red Maple (Acer rubrum)

• A versatile deciduous tree that grows in various habitats, from wetlands to upland forests.
• Known for its vibrant red foliage in the fall.

6. Lady Fern (Athyrium filix-femina)

• A delicate fern that thrives in shaded, moist woodlands.
• Its fronds can grow up to 3 feet tall.

7. Mountain Laurel (Kalmia latifolia)

• A shrub with glossy evergreen leaves and showy clusters of pink or white flowers.
• It grows well in acidic soils and is often found in forests and rocky hillsides.

8. American Chestnut (Castanea dentata) (historically significant)

• Once common throughout New England, this tree was devastated by chestnut blight in the early 20th century.
• Efforts are underway to restore it through breeding resistant varieties.

9. Bergamot (Monarda fistulosa)

• A fragrant perennial that produces purple, tubular flowers.
• Commonly found in meadows, and its leaves are used in herbal teas.

10. Common Milkweed (Asclepias Syriaca)

• A tall perennial plant with large, fragrant pink flowers that attract monarch butterflies.
• Found in open fields and along roadsides.

11. Wild Bergamot (Monarda didyma)

• Another native mint family member, it has bright red flowers and grows in a variety of habitats.
• Attractive to pollinators like bees and hummingbirds.

12. Black Tupelo (Nyssa sylvatica)

• A small to medium-sized tree with striking fall color, ranging from yellow to red.
• Common in wetlands and well-drained forests.

13. Northern Bayberry (Morella pensylvanica)

• A hardy shrub with aromatic foliage and waxy, gray-blue berries.
• Often found in coastal and sandy areas.

14. Sweetfern (Comptonia peregrina)

• A low, fragrant shrub with fern-like leaves, often found in dry, sandy soils.
• Known for its pleasant, sweet smell.

Other Natives include.

• Black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia hirta)
• Milkweed (Asclepias spp.)
• Florida Dogwood (Cornus)
• Chokeberry (Aronia)
• Swamp Azalea (Rhododendron viscosum)
• Some Oaks (Quercus spp.)
• Blueberry (Vaccinium)
• Eastern Redbud (Cercis canadensis)
• Black Walnut (Juglans nigra)

These plants are not only beautiful but also crucial for maintaining local ecosystems, supporting wildlife, and contributing to soil health and biodiversity in New England.

Non-Native Plants*

• Origin: Non-native plants (introduced plants) are species that did not evolve in North America but have been brought from other regions, either intentionally (for landscaping or agricultural purposes) or accidentally (through trade, travel, or other human activity).
• Ecological Role: Non-native plants may not provide the same ecological benefits as native species. Some can become invasive, meaning they spread rapidly and outcompete native species for resources. This disrupts local ecosystems, harming biodiversity. Not all non-native plants are invasive, though; some coexist with native species without causing harm.
• Examples: Common non-native plants in New England include:

• Spicebush (Lindera)
• Daylilies (Hemerocallis spp.)
• Hosta (Hosta spp.)
• Hydrangea (Hydrangea spp.)
• Boxwood (Buxus spp.)
• Bulbs
• Peony (Peonia spp.)
• Roses (Rosa spp.)

Invasive Plants*

• Poison Ivy (Toxicodendron pubescens) NATIVE TO NORTH AMERICA
• Japanese Knotweed (Fallopia japonica)
• Purple Loosestrife (Lythrum salicaria)
• Black Locust (Robinia pseudocacia)
• English Ivy (Hedera helix)

*This is a small representation of Native, Non-Native and invasive plants.

Sustainability is a word most used in even landscaping it refers to by United Nations “Meeting the needs of the present without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own needs (social, economic…).  Being good Stewards. 

Sustainability of the environment and the soil, where more life lives is vitally important to beauty, health above the ground. 

One teaspoon of soil contains more living organisms than there are people in the world.        James Hutton Institute

A single teaspoon (1 gram) of rich garden soil can hold up to one billion bacteria, several yards of fungal filaments, several thousand protozoa, and scores of nematodes, according to Kathy Merrifield, a retired nematologist at Oregon State University.

 https://cwppra.wordpress.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/soil-organism_ww.jpg

Key principles of environmental sustainability include:

1. Conservation of Resources: Irrigation, watering using Xeriscaping, rain barrels.
2. Reduction of Waste: Minimizing waste generation, promoting recycling, and reducing pollution and composting.
3. Biodiversity Preservation: Protecting ecosystems and species to maintain a balanced and healthy environment. Using pollinators and other habitats for survival.
4. Sustainable Practices in Agriculture, Industry, and Development: Ensuring that farming, manufacturing, and construction practices are environmentally responsible and energy efficient. 
5. Know Your Environment: By knowing your soil conditions, what your water needs and availability of resources. What is your shade, sun conditions?

How to use environmental sustainability in your life:

1. Reduce, Reuse, Recycle: Minimize waste by buying only what you need, reusing items, and recycling materials. Cardboard, newspaper great for adding a weed layer to non-vegetable beds. 
2. Support Eco-friendly Products: Choose products made with sustainable materials or from companies that prioritize environmental responsibility. For me it is Espoma  Biotone Starter plus, which I use to plant with and amend plants during the season, raked into soil. 
3. Conserve Water: Use water-efficient appliances, take shorter showers, and fix leaks promptly. Rain Barrels, amend soil by adding compost and thin layers of mulch. 
4. Plant Trees and Support Conservation Efforts: Participate in local environmental efforts and support conservation initiatives.
5. Planting of Native species: Checking with your local state, extension officeand universities.  Your local nursery and garden Centers have sections to promote Native plants, and plant tags   have this information also. 
6. Educate and Advocate: Spread awareness and encourage sustainable practices within your community. HOA’s are starting to embrace sustainability as it helps reduce watering and improves the neighborhood.
7. Soil Test:By using your university or Master Gardeners can help improve your soil either in lawns or gardens (vegetable or garden). https://ag.umass.edu/services/soil-plant-nutrient-testing-laboratory/ordering-information-forms
8. Use companion plantings which help each other out.  Example is planting any Allium in with Roses, this over time makes plant more fragrant and bug repellent. Rhododendron love to be planted with Mountain Laurels.    

By incorporating these actions into your daily life, you can contribute to the broader goal of environmental sustainability and help mitigate the effects of climate change and resource depletion.

The Acer griseum, commonly known as the paperbark maple, is a small to medium-sized deciduous tree native to central China. It is most renowned for its striking cinnamon-colored, peeling bark that adds a unique visual appeal to landscapes, especially in winter months when its exfoliating bark stands out. This is a beautiful multi-season tree.

Key Features

Appearance:

1.  Size and Growth: It typically grows 20 to 30 feet tall with a similar spread, making it ideal for smaller gardens or as a specimen tree.
2. Leaves: The leaves are a beautiful green during the growing season, turning vibrant red and orange in fall, adding to its seasonal interest.

3. Bark: The bark is the tree’s most distinct feature, peeling in thin, papery layers. The color can range from reddish-brown to cinnamon, making it an attractive feature in winter.

4. Flowering and Fruit: It produces small, yellow-green flowers in spring, followed by winged samaras (seed pods). 

Fall foliage color!

Growing Conditions:

• Hardiness: The tree is hardy in USDA zones 4 to 8, meaning it can withstand cold temperatures and perform well in many temperate climates.

6. Soil and Care: Acer griseum prefers slightly acidic, well-drained soil and does best in a sunny or partially shaded location. It is also somewhat drought-tolerant once established.

Uses :

This tree is a lovely ornamental choice for adding year-round interest to gardens and is especially appreciated for its winter appeal when other trees are bare.

Composting is a natural process that turns organic waste into nutrient-rich soil for your garden. Here is a simple guide to get you started:

1. Choose a Composting Method – There are many ways to achieve nutrient rich compost.

Here are different methods to compost, depending on your space and resources:

• Compost bin: A closed container to hold materials, good for small spaces or if you want to contain odors.
• Compost pile: A more open approach, good for larger areas. This can be made with Pallets, cinder blocks and other materials.
• Tumbler: A rotating drum that helps speed up the composting process.
• Kitchen compost containers and bags A way to start and add to existing piles, best to collect daily and add to outdoor pile.

2. Gather Materials

• **THERE IS A MAJOR NO-NO TO ADD TO THE COMPOST – NO MEAT OR FAT/OILS AND NO DAIRY. ** Avoid composting diseased plants, weed seeds and pet waste, as these can cause odors or introduce harmful bacteria.

You need both green (nitrogen) provides heat for breakdown and brown (carbon) materials.

Ratio is 2 parts Brown to 1 part green.

• Green materials (nitrogen-rich): These provide moisture and nutrients.
  • Fruit and vegetable scraps
  • Grass clippings
  • Coffee grounds
  • Eggshells
  • Plant trimmings
  • Manure from herbivores (chickens, cows, etc.)
• Brown materials (carbon-rich): These provide structure and help aerate the pile.
  • Leaves
  • Straw or hay
  • Shredded paper or cardboard
  • Sawdust (from untreated wood)
  • Small branches or twigs

https://www.mass.gov/doc/poster-composting-is-easy/download

3. Create Layers

• Start with a layer of course, brown materials (e.g., small twigs or straw) at the bottom. This helps with air circulation.
• Alternate layers of green and brown materials, aiming for about two parts brown to one part green.
• Chop or shred larger materials (like cardboard or branches) to speed up decomposition.

4. Maintain Your Pile

• Aerate: Turn the compost pile regularly (every 2-3 weeks) with a pitchfork or compost aerator. This ensures oxygen reaches the microorganisms that break down the material.
• Moisture: Your compost should be as moist as a wrung-out sponge. Add water if it is too dry or more dry material if it is too wet.
• Temperature is very critical for decomposing material 90 – 140 degrees Fahrenheit.  Pathogens in this range will be killed. Above 160 degrees compost can become sterile.

5. Let It Break Down

• Over time, microorganisms, worms, and other creatures break down the materials.
• The process can take 2-6 months depending on the size of your pile, the material, and how often you turn it.

6. Finished Compost

• When your compost is dark, crumbly, and smells earthy (not rotten), it is ready to use. It should look and feel like rich, dark soil.
• Use your compost in garden beds, flowerpots, or to enrich your lawn.

Tips:

• Smaller pieces decompose faster. Breaking down large items will speed up the process.
• If you have a compost bin, be mindful of the lid. Make sure it is not too tightly sealed to allow airflow.

With patience, you will have your own homemade compost, which will enhance the health of your plants!

From scraps to GOLD                                                         

The Mystery of Winter Pruning and Care of Hydrangeas

The worldwide love of Hydrangeas, which give a pop of color and beauty our garden spaces. The varieties of shape colors, and arrangements, have also raised questions of care, pruning which will give years of beauty and flowers with just me basic care.  First one must determine what type of hydrangea do you have. Here are other ways to determine the type.

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1. Types of Hydrangeas and Pruning

Hydrangea macrophylla (Bigleaf Hydrangea)

Known for its large, round flower or lace cap heads, this variety blooms in shades of blue, pink, purple, or white. It is one of the most popular varieties due to its versatility and beauty.  Prune shortly after the flowers fade. Prune right above a node on strong, healthy new growth. You can also remove dead wood in spring or fall. 

Hydrangea paniculata (Panicle Hydrangea)

With its cone-shaped flower clusters, this variety produces white or pink blooms that gradually deepen to a deeper pink as the season progresses. It is a hardy plant and can                           tolerate both sun and partial shade. Prune back one-third of the old growth in late winter early spring. Also, any crossing branches.

Hydrangea quercifolia (Oakleaf Hydrangea)

Named for its oak-shaped leaves, this variety adds texture to your garden. It produces beautiful white flowers that turn pinkish red in the fall, making it perfect for seasonal interest.  Often left unpruned, but if you want to prune, you can right after flowering.  Plant can be reduced by one-third.   Remove any diseased or dead branches.

Hydrangea arborescens (Smooth Hydrangea)

• This variety is known for its large, white blooms and is particularly hardy. It can tolerate a variety of climates and soil conditions.  Prune hard to about 1 foot ot to the ground in early spring. 

Climbing Hydrangea (Hydrangea anomala petiolaris)

This variety is perfect for gardeners who want to cover a trellis or wall with lush, green foliage and white flowers. The plant uses tendrils to adhere to the climbing surface.  Prune climbing hydrangeas in the summer after they’ve finished flowering. Remove faded flower heads, cut back dead or straggly stems, and shorten any wayward shoots. Most flowers form towards the top of the plant, so try to leave as much of this un-pruned as possible. If you need to reduce the size of an established climbing hydrangea, try to do it over the course of several summers so that flowering is not affected too much.

February 24, 2023 by Nana Shames

Other tips

To rejuvenate a hydrangea, remove up to one-third of the older living stems down to the ground each summer. To control the size of a hydrangea, cut back before late July.  Sometimes blooms will be sacrificed.

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2. Choosing the Right Location

Hydrangeas thrive in different environments depending on their variety. Here are some tips for selecting the best spot for your plants:

• Sunlight Requirements:
  Most hydrangeas prefer partial shade, especially in hotter climates, as direct sunlight can scorch their leaves. However, varieties like Hydrangea paniculata enjoy more sun and can tolerate it better.
• Soil Type:
  Hydrangeas prefer well-drained, slightly acidic soil. Adding organic matter like compost can improve soil structure and help the plants thrive.
• Watering Needs:
  Hydrangeas need plenty of water, especially during the warmer months. However, they don’t like to sit in waterlogged soil. Well-drained soil is crucial to prevent root rot.

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3. Hydrangea Care Throughout the Seasons

Taking care of hydrangeas throughout the year ensures that they continue to bloom beautifully. Here’s a quick overview of seasonal care:

• Spring:
  In early spring, remove any dead or damaged wood from the plant. If you have hydrangeas that bloom on old wood (like the Bigleaf hydrangeas), avoid heavy pruning. Fertilize with a balanced, slow-release fertilizer to encourage healthy growth.
• Summer:
  Hydrangeas typically bloom during the summer months. Keep the plants well-watered, especially in hot weather. You can prune dead flowers for tidiness, but be careful not to remove too much foliage.
• Fall:
  As the season cools, your hydrangeas may start to show off their fall colors. Some varieties turn shades of red or purple. In colder climates, it’s important to mulch around the base of the plant to protect the roots from freezing temperatures.
• Winter:
  In extreme colder regions, protect your hydrangeas by wrapping the plants with burlap or covering them with a thick layer of mulch to prevent frost damage.  With proper snow coverage plants will be protected, when there are not winter burn conditions occur to the buds and stems. 

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4. Common Hydrangea Problems and Solutions

While hydrangeas are relatively low maintenance, they can occasionally run into problems. Here are a few common issues:

• Yellowing Leaves:
  This is often caused by poor drainage or nutrient deficiencies. Ensure your hydrangea gets enough water and is planted in nutrient-rich soil.
• Wilting Leaves:
  Hydrangeas are prone to wilting during hot weather if they don’t get enough water. Water deeply and regularly, especially during dry spells.
• Pests and Diseases:
  Hydrangeas can sometimes be affected by pests like aphids or diseases like powdery mildew. Use organic insecticides or fungicides to treat these issues. Additionally, keep the plants well-spaced to improve air circulation, which can prevent fungal diseases.

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5. Conclusion

Hydrangeas are an exceptional addition to any garden, offering beauty, versatility, and seasonal interest. Whether you have a sprawling garden or a small balcony, there’s a hydrangea variety that fits your space. By choosing the right type, providing proper care, and understanding how soil pH affects color, you can enjoy these stunning blooms year-round.

Are you ready to make your garden shine with hydrangeas? With a little attention and love, they’ll reward you with stunning flowers for seasons to come.